Italian designers have downshifted for the Spring-Summer 2008, taking the curves out of their signature sexy styles to present a romantic woman who looks to the classy styles of the 1950s for fashion guidance.

Focal point of the season is the tightly cinched waistline, which separates a small bodice from the full skirt below. The style is reminiscent of the late actress Grace Kelly, a Hollywood icon of elegance, who left the screen for her marriage to Prince Rainier III of Monte Carlo in 1956.

Star of the week's 96 preview showings, which ended Friday, is the dress.

"It's a good season," said Judy Collinson of Barneys New York of the current round of collections, noting that last summer, dresses were a very popular sales item.

Next summer marks the return of the chemise, that shapeless dress which hides all virtues and most sins. Designers offer it for night and day, in its original form which was gathered at the knee, as well as in contemporary mini hemlines, bringing it closer to the lingerie-like baby doll.

In the pants department, the most featured style is hot pants, with the heat taken out by the long and dainty tops which accompany them. Bermudas and jeans virtually disappear, with trousers sporting a very chaste and classic cut.

Jumpsuits also make a summer appearance, often in a shorts version, which may be cooler than the winter style, but alas no more practical. Vests, too, make a comeback.

The general feel of the season is romantic, with copious use of organza and tulle. Roberto Cavalli, for example, switched from super sexy to sensual in a collection where the line between boudoir and bucolic was as thin as the fabric he used to fashion his milk maiden styles.

Gauze and other see-through fabrics play a major role this season. But far from unveiling the body, they are used as a sort of protective film over outfits. Jil Sander fashioned evening shawls and even a trench coat out of these flimsy fabrics, while Dolce & Gabbana used it to protect the hand-painting of their elaborate evening wear.

On the other side of the fabric spectrum the designers made heavy use of plasticized materials and patent leather, even for tops and skirts, for the stiffer square cut styles _ another theme of this round of shows. Best at this look was Marni by Consuelo Castiglione, switching in her case from signature romantic to almost minimalist.

Except for flashes of green, blue and coral, and some colorful prints, the spring-summer palette is pale, favoring sandy hues and delicate peachy pink.

In the accessory department a wide belt is a must, as is a tiny waistline.

Shoes tend to be platform sandals with an ultra high heel and wide straps, or a summer open-toed, high-heeled oxford. For those who just can't cope with lofty footwear, designers also resurrected the old-fashioned flat brown leather sandal. The latest Prada shoe stands in a category of its own, fashioned out of strands of multicolored leather and velvet with a jewel encrusted baroque heel.

In these basically quiet collections, jewelry plays a minor role and makeup is understated. The designers prefer blondes this season, coifing their hair in studied disarray.

The fashion crowd moves next to Paris, where the pret-a-porter shows begin Sunday.