Listed among Frommer's Top 10 up-and-coming summer tourist destinations is one city that might surprise many people. Unless, of course, they've been there.

No, the place doesn't offer white sandy beaches, lush foliage or 24-hour gaming. But it does have a spectacular array of museums, shopping and restaurants along a shimmering Inner Harbor promenade only a few steps from several first-class hotels.

It also has historical and cultural attractions, diverse neighborhoods and the ballpark that for two decades has been the standard for stadium architecture. And it's all nestled within the nation's most populous region,

The destination is Baltimore, which attracts more than 11 million visitors annually and this year will host the 130th NGAUS General Conference and Exhibition, Sept. 19 to 22.

The event in "Charm City" will mark a pair of what many people consider longoverdue returns. The conference hasn't been on the East Coast in eight years and 1944 was the last time it was in Baltimore.

As a result, local National Guard organizers and city and state officials are eager to please their expected 4,000-plus guests.

"We are really excited and looking forward to showing everyone a good time," says Col. Robert Barish, the Maryland Guard's conference chairman.

THE CITY Baltimore is a dynamic city that continues to evolve while holding on to its maritime heritage. Since 1600, Baltimore waterways have been a passage for ships carrying commercial cargo and new citizens.

Formally established in 1729 to serve the economic needs of 18th-century Maryland farmers, the town of Baltimore gradually began to take on a life of its own.

The city played a crucial role in the War of 1812, when soldiers at Fort McHenry held off the British in September 1814. A young American lawyer, Francis Scott Key, immortalized the victory in a poem, which became known as The Star-Spangled Banner.

After the war, vigorous foreign trade resumed and the city grew into the second largest U.S. municipality. Fueled by port operations and the canning of the Chesapeake Bay's bounty, Baltimore prospered for much of the next 100 years.

The city suffered a decline following World War II when new housing, shopping and other attractions in the suburbs began to lure residents.

But Baltimore experienced a renewal in the 1970s and 1980s. To bring people back downtown, officials tore down the dilapidated wharves and warehouses around the harbor and replaced them with restaurants, shopping and other attractions.

Today, Baltimore's Inner Harbor draws people from around the world. One of the principle attractions is a wide variety of cuisine and dining experiences that should please every taste and sensibility.

Frommer's, the travel guide people, also recently named Baltimore as one of the top international cities offering consistently good food.

Of course, topping it all is the Maryland blue crab. Whether it's soft, hard, soup or in a crab cake, conference attendees will have plenty of opportunity to taste the state crustacean.

THE CONFERENCE While Baltimore is within driving distance for many, must attendees will arrive via airplane at BWI (Baltimore/Washington International) Thurgood Marshall Airport, which is a few miles south of downtown Baltimore.

Although the Maryland Guard will provide ground transportation from the airport to the hotels, taxis, trains and rental cars are also an option.

The estimated taxi rate between the airport and host hotels is $32. MARC commuter-train and light-rail fares are considerably less.

Nine hotels will accommodate conference attendees, and the 1.2 million-square-foot Baltimore Convention Center will house most conference events.

Although transportation will be provided, all hotels are only a few blocks from each other, the convention center and many Inner Harbor attractions. "It's going to be a walking conference," Barish says.

The exhibition will be held in the convention center's Exhibit Halls A through E, and the business sessions will take place upstairs in Ballrooms I through IV.

The Sponsors' Golf Tournament on Sept. 18 and the NGAUS Tournament on Sept. 19 both will be played at the Compass Pointe Golf Course in nearby Pasadena. The Lindsay Ervin-designed course features more than 800 acres of diverse woodland.

Major events begin at 4 p.m., Sept. 19 with the tradeshow Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony. A reception open to all attendees will follow.

Other activities that evening include the Adjutants General Reception in the convention center, followed by the Adjutants General Dinner at the Baltimore and Ohio (B&O) Railroad Museum.

A National Historic Landmark, and affiliate of the Smithsonian Institute, the B&O Museum collects, preserves and interprets artifacts related to early American railroading.

The annual Company Grade/Warrant Officer Mixer will be aboard the Bay Lady cruise ship. With a capacity of 550 guests, she has ample space for plenty of food, drinks and entertainment.

The evening cruise departs Baltimore Harbor at 7 p.m. for a two-hour excursion to Key Bridge near historic Fort McHenry and back.

Events begin early Sept. 20 with the 5K Fun Run at 6:30 a.m. The route is a figure-eight loop in between Oriole Park at Camden Yards, home of the Baltimore Orioles, and M&T Bank Stadium, where the Baltimore Ravens play.

The annual area meeting and caucuses begin at 9 a.m., followed by brunch and the first business session.

As always, NGAUS will invite key lawmakers and defense leaders to speak. There's also a presidential election this year and the major-party candidates have spoken to the conference every election year since 1992.

Given the year and the conference's proximity to Washington, D.C., attendees can expect a marquee group of speakers.

The Governor's Reception on Sept. 20 should be equal parts history lesson and fun. It's set for the Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine. Festivities include a re-enactment of the Battle of Baltimore and fireworks.

The Spouse's Luncheon will be held the next day in the convention center. Maryland organizers say those attending are in store for a "great surprise." They wouldn't elaborate.

Later that evening is Hospitality Night held in several state hotel suites all around town. Shuttle buses will be running between the hotels until 11 p.m.

The annual States Dinner will conclude the conference Sept. 22.

BEYOND THE CONFERENCE Once again this year, there is much to explore in the host city. And no trip to Baltimore would be complete without a walking tour of the Inner Harbor, which includes four National Historic Landmarks.

At the edge of the harbor sits the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse, the oldest surviving screw-pile lighthouse.

In the water, floats the Lightship Chesapeake, a 1930's classic; the USCGC Taney, a pre-World War II cutter; and the USS Torsk, a World War II submarine. Each can be boarded.

The USS Constellation, the U.S. Navy's last sailing warship, also invites guests to "discover" life on board. Launched in 1854, it has been docked in the Baltimore Harbor since 1955.

The National Aquarium at the harbor's end is regarded as one of the world's best marine exhibitions. The facility features more than 5,000 creatures in recreations of their natural habitats.

On the other side of the harbor sits the Maryland Science Center. It features a planetarium and an exciting IMAX theater.

In between are Harborplace and The Gallery, the city's premier shopping, dining and entertainment destinations.

The Inner Harbor is also home to night-time attractions, including Power Plant Live, which features an array of bars and restaurants. There is also a Hard Rock Caf and an ESPN Zone.

Other parts of the city also have attractions. Just outside the Inner Harbor area, Little Italy boasts more than 20 restaurants. And historic Fells Point, which is only a little farther east, offers several pubs and eateries.

Maryland Guard organizers are confident that their plans and Baltimore's attractions will combine to make the conference a memorable event.

"We are not just planning to put on a conference," Barish says, "it's going to be a WOW conference."

Bring on the rockets red glare!

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