Braving chilly temperatures and brisk winds, thousands of Christian faithful on Wednesday flocked to Bethlehem to celebrate Christmas in the traditional birthplace of Jesus.
The pilgrims, returning in the largest numbers yet since the start in 2000 of the Palestinian uprising, brought a strong dose of Christmas cheer to the city in the Israeli-occupied West Bank.
But the faithful also came face to face with the stark reality of a troubled region, in the shape of an eight-metre (26-feet) high concrete wall -- part of Israel's separation barrier -- just a few hundred meters (yards) from the spot where Christians believe their Prince of Peace was born.
Visitors travelling from Jerusalem, just a few kilometers (miles) away, pass the wall through Israeli checkpoints.
Pilgrims who made their way to Bethlehem in their thousands in the past few days milled around Manger Square just outside the Church of the Nativity, where a grotto marks the location of the stable where Jesus was said to be born.
"It is really very special to be in Bethlehem on the day we celebrate Christmas, it is a very emotional moment," said Eduardo Robles Gil, a Mexican priest who was on a pilgrimage with his family.
A fife, drum and bagpipe band comprising Palestinian Boy Scouts kicked off the celebrations as the head of the Roman Catholic Church in the Holy Land, Latin Patriarch Fuad Twal, led a procession from Jerusalem.
Around Manger Square, souvenir stores were doing brisk business selling nativity scenes carved in olive wood, various icons and other religious trinkets.
The usual trappings of a modern Christmas -- garlands of flickering lights, synthetic pine trees, fake snow and inflatable Santas -- decorated the city.
Elsa Marie Kierkegaard, a Dane who converted to Catholicism five years ago, was a little taken aback by what she felt was crass commercialism.
"It's like one big market," she said. But she was excited at the thought she'd be participating in midnight mass just a few metres from the spot where Mary is said to have given birth to Jesus. "It's a really huge thing," she said, beaming.
Palestinian president Mahmud Abbas and prime minister Salam Fayyad were among the dignitaries who planned to attend the festivities that were to culminate with midnight mass.
Palestinian officials expect as many as 12,500 visitors on Christmas Eve alone.
The number of visitors to Bethlehem this year passed the one-million mark weeks ago, twice as many as in 2007 and the highest number since 1999, Palestinian officials said.
Beaming hoteliers say there there won't be any room at the inns in this city of 185,000 people for weeks to come.
The tourist boom is a welcome respite for the Palestinian territory, whose economic growth the World Bank say is crippled by Israeli restrictions on movement of goods and people, including hundreds of checkpoints and the separation barrier.
Twal, who will lead Bethlehem's midnight mass sharply criticised the barrier.
"With pain and deep sadness, we observe civilians being blockaded by the erection of walls and barriers. These contribute to the creation of violence and humiliation, generating grudges and hatred," he said in a Christmas message.
Israel allowed 300 Christians from Gaza to leave the besieged territory, the army said, where violence escalated again on Wednesday after a two-day lull as militants pounded Israel with rocket and mortar fire after the army killed three militants.
Source: AFP Global Edition
