The economic doldrums seem to have vanished in Italy's fashion capital, where luxurious fabrics and sometimes-quirky outfits are on parade until Wednesday in winter 2009 ready-to-wear collections for men.

Consider punk queen Vivienne Westwood's tongue-and-cheek show Sunday, in which one model paraded in a kilt and flowered vest while another -- clad in a wild tunic of mismatched wool -- hoisted a spade over one shoulder.

Boldness also stamped the collection of Miuccia Prada, featuring shirts and shoes sprinkled with studs, black leather T-shirts and a leather strap belted around one model that was closed at the back by an enormous pompom.

Meanwhile, Marni offered up soft, finely crafted cashmere leggings paired with a sumptuous black lambskin parka -- an outfit on display in the showroom but not at the opening Saturday.

For his part, Christopher Baily's show for Burberry showcased variations on the classic white shirt, whether with decorated front, a tiny collar or closed with a dandyish tie.

Dolce&Gabanna again poked a little fun at life, with satin-pointed slipper-moccasins in fuchsia, violet and red.